This article addresses girls' dress, which has become controversial, especially in contemporary multicultural Europe. Using the Dutch public debate about the headscarf, belly shirts, visible G-strings, and other forms of ‘porno-chic’, the authors show that these seemingly separate debates are held together by the regulation of female sexuality. Through their analysis of the headscarves and porno-chic debate, the authors argue that women's sexuality and girls' bodies in particular have become the metonymic location for many a contemporary social dilemma: of the multicultural society when it concerns the scarf, of feminism and public morality when it concerns porno-chic. They conclude that despite the widely different appearance of girls wearing headscarves or porno-chic, both groups of girls are submitted to the meta-narratives of dominant discourse: the state, school, public opinion, parents and other social institutions ‘resignify’ their everyday practices as inappropriate, and reprieve them from the power to define their own actions.

Amara, Fadela (2003) Ni putes, ni soumises. Paris: La Decouverte . Google Scholar
Auster, Albert (2002) ‘ Sex and the City: New Television Images of Women’ , Television Quarterly 32(4): 5255 . Google Scholar
Benhabib, Seyla (2002) The Claims of Culture: Equality and Diversity in the Global Era. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press . Google Scholar
Bhachu, Parminder (2004) Dangerous Designs: Asian Women Fashion the Diaspora Economies. London: Routledge . Google Scholar
Bouw, Carolien , Ans Merens , Kitty Roukens and Leen Sterckx (2003) Een ander succes: De keuzes van Marokkaanse meisjes. Amsterdam: SISWO/SCP . Google Scholar
Brunsdon, Charlotte (2000) ‘Post-Feminism and Shopping Films’, pp. 289299 in J. Hollows , P. Hutchings and M. Jancovich (eds) The Film Studies Reader. New York: Oxford University Press . Google Scholar
De Bruin, Joost (1999) De spanning van seksualiteit. Plezier en gevaar in jongerenbladen. Amsterdam: Het Spinhuis. Google Scholar
De Ras, Marion and Mieke Lunenberg , eds (1993) Girls, Girlhood and Girls' Studies in Transition. Amsterdam: Het Spinhuis . Google Scholar
Driscoll, Catherine (2002) Girls: Feminine Adolescence in Popular Culture and Cultural Theory. New York: Columbia University Press . Google Scholar
Duursma, Mark (2004) ‘“Ik kies ervoor om me uit te sluiten”; Studenten keren zich tegen voorgenomen sluierverbod op Vrije Universiteit’, NRC Handelsblad 5 October: 7. Google Scholar
Dworkin, Andrea (1981) Pornography: Men Possessing Women. New York: Perigee . Google Scholar
Eerdmans, Joost and Erik Schreijen (2004) ‘Neutrale staat is een grondrecht’, NRC Handelsblad 3 March: OPI1. Google Scholar
Eisses, Kat (2004) ‘Is zeven centimeter te weinig?’ , De groene Amsterdammer 128(8): 1215 . Google Scholar
Fogteloo, Margreet (2003) ‘BilspleetdecolletÈs: de nieuwste trend in modeland’, De groene Amsterdammer 127(19): 49. Google Scholar
Fox, Greer L. (1977) ‘“Nice Girl”: Social Control of Women Through a Value Construct’ , Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society 2(4): 805817 . Google Scholar, Crossref
Garnham, Nicholas (1997) ‘Political Economy and the Practice of Cultural Studies’, pp. 5674 in M. Ferguson and P. Golding (eds) Cultural Studies in Question. London: Sage . Google Scholar, Crossref
Gill, Rosalind (2003) ‘From Sexual Objectification to Sexual Subjectification: The Resexualisation of Women's Bodies in the Media’ , Feminist Media Studies 3(1): 100106 . Google Scholar
Goethals, MichËle (1996) ‘De islamitische hoofddoek: te nemen of te laten?’, pp. 149–63 in R. Doom (ed.) Tolerantie getolereerd? Islamitische en westerse opvattingen, Tegenspraak, Cahier 16. Antwerpen: Kluwer rechtswetenschappen. Google Scholar
Göle, Nilüfer (1996) The Forbidden Modern: Civilization and Veiling. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press . Google Scholar
Kabbani, Rana (1986) Europe's Myths of Orient. Basingstoke: Macmillan . Google Scholar, Crossref
Kehily, Mary Jane (1999) ‘More Sugar? Teenage Magazines, Gender Displays and Sexual Learning’ , European Journal of Cultural Studies 2(1): 6589 . Google Scholar, SAGE Journals
KiliÁbay, Baris and Mutlu Binark (2002) ‘Consumer Culture, Islam and the Politics of Lifestyle’ , European Journal of Communication 17(4): 495511 . Google Scholar, SAGE Journals, ISI
Kuhn, Annette (1985) The Power of the Image: Essays on Representation and Sexuality. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul . Google Scholar
Lederer, Laura , ed. (1980) Take Back the Night: Women on Pornography. New York: William Morrow . Google Scholar
McNair, Brian (2002) Striptease Culture: Sex, Media and the Democratization of Desire. London: Routledge . Google Scholar, Crossref
McRobbie, Angela (2004) ‘Post-Feminism and Popular Culture’ , Feminist Media Studies 4(3): 255265 . Google Scholar, Crossref
McRobbie, Angela and Trisha McCabe (1981) Feminism for Girls: An Adventure Story. London: Routledge . Google Scholar
Naber, Pauline (1985) Vriendinnen: een explorerend onderzoek naar de betekenis van vriendinnen voor meisjes van veertien tot achttien jaar. Amsterdam: VU Uitgeverij. Google Scholar
Olson, Emelie A. (1985) ‘Muslim Identity and Secularism in Contemporary Turkey: “The Headscarf Dispute”’ , Anthropological Quarterly 58(4): 161171 . Google Scholar, Crossref, ISI
Prins, Baukje (2000) Voorbij de onschuld. Het debat over de multiculturele samenleving. Amsterdam: Van Gennep. Google Scholar
Said, Edward W. (1979) Orientalism. New York: Pantheon . Google Scholar
Sandikci, Ozlem and Güliz Ger (2001) ‘Fundamental Fashions: The Cultural Politics of the Turban and the Levi's’ , Advances in Consumer Research 28: 146150 . Google Scholar
Van Beemen, Olivier (2003) ‘Moralisme in de klas’, Elsevier 59(45): 55–6. Google Scholar
Vance, Carole S. , ed. (1984) Pleasure and Danger: Exploring Female Sexuality. Boston, MA: Routledge . Google Scholar
Van der Hoeven, Marie (2003) Leidraad kleding op scholen. The Hague: Ministerie van OCW. Google Scholar
Van Kuijeren, Mira (2000) ‘Hoofddoekjesaffaires. Over de Franse en Nederlandse worstelingen met gesluierde leerlingen’, Groniek: Historisch Tijdschrift 3(149): 455–71. Google Scholar
Van Zeijl, Femke (2003) ‘De kracht van de blote buik’, Opzij May. Google Scholar
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This article addresses girls' dress, which has become controversial, especially in contemporary multicultural Europe. Using the Dutch public debate about the headscarf, belly shirts, visible G-strings, and other forms of ‘porno-chic’, the authors show that these seemingly separate debates are held together by the regulation of female sexuality. Through their analysis of the headscarves and porno-chic debate, the authors argue that women's sexuality and girls' bodies in particular have become the metonymic location for many a contemporary social dilemma: of the multicultural society when it concerns the scarf, of feminism and public morality when it concerns porno-chic. They conclude that despite the widely different appearance of girls wearing headscarves or porno-chic, both groups of girls are submitted to the meta-narratives of dominant discourse: the state, school, public opinion, parents and other social institutions ‘resignify’ their everyday practices as inappropriate, and reprieve them from the power to define their own actions.

Amara, Fadela (2003) Ni putes, ni soumises. Paris: La Decouverte . Google Scholar
Auster, Albert (2002) ‘ Sex and the City: New Television Images of Women’ , Television Quarterly 32(4): 5255 . Google Scholar
Benhabib, Seyla (2002) The Claims of Culture: Equality and Diversity in the Global Era. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press . Google Scholar
Bhachu, Parminder (2004) Dangerous Designs: Asian Women Fashion the Diaspora Economies. London: Routledge . Google Scholar
Bouw, Carolien , Ans Merens , Kitty Roukens and Leen Sterckx (2003) Een ander succes: De keuzes van Marokkaanse meisjes. Amsterdam: SISWO/SCP . Google Scholar
Brunsdon, Charlotte (2000) ‘Post-Feminism and Shopping Films’, pp. 289299 in J. Hollows , P. Hutchings and M. Jancovich (eds) The Film Studies Reader. New York: Oxford University Press . Google Scholar
De Bruin, Joost (1999) De spanning van seksualiteit. Plezier en gevaar in jongerenbladen. Amsterdam: Het Spinhuis. Google Scholar
De Ras, Marion and Mieke Lunenberg , eds (1993) Girls, Girlhood and Girls' Studies in Transition. Amsterdam: Het Spinhuis . Google Scholar
Driscoll, Catherine (2002) Girls: Feminine Adolescence in Popular Culture and Cultural Theory. New York: Columbia University Press . Google Scholar
Duursma, Mark (2004) ‘“Ik kies ervoor om me uit te sluiten”; Studenten keren zich tegen voorgenomen sluierverbod op Vrije Universiteit’, NRC Handelsblad 5 October: 7. Google Scholar
Dworkin, Andrea (1981) Pornography: Men Possessing Women. New York: Perigee . Google Scholar
Eerdmans, Joost and Erik Schreijen (2004) ‘Neutrale staat is een grondrecht’, NRC Handelsblad 3 March: OPI1. Google Scholar
Eisses, Kat (2004) ‘Is zeven centimeter te weinig?’ , De groene Amsterdammer 128(8): 1215 . Google Scholar
Fogteloo, Margreet (2003) ‘BilspleetdecolletÈs: de nieuwste trend in modeland’, De groene Amsterdammer 127(19): 49. Google Scholar
Fox, Greer L. (1977) ‘“Nice Girl”: Social Control of Women Through a Value Construct’ , Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society 2(4): 805817 . Google Scholar, Crossref
Garnham, Nicholas (1997) ‘Political Economy and the Practice of Cultural Studies’, pp. 5674 in M. Ferguson and P. Golding (eds) Cultural Studies in Question. London: Sage . Google Scholar, Crossref
Gill, Rosalind (2003) ‘From Sexual Objectification to Sexual Subjectification: The Resexualisation of Women's Bodies in the Media’ , Feminist Media Studies 3(1): 100106 . Google Scholar
Goethals, MichËle (1996) ‘De islamitische hoofddoek: te nemen of te laten?’, pp. 149–63 in R. Doom (ed.) Tolerantie getolereerd? Islamitische en westerse opvattingen, Tegenspraak, Cahier 16. Antwerpen: Kluwer rechtswetenschappen. Google Scholar
Göle, Nilüfer (1996) The Forbidden Modern: Civilization and Veiling. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press . Google Scholar
Kabbani, Rana (1986) Europe's Myths of Orient. Basingstoke: Macmillan . Google Scholar, Crossref
Kehily, Mary Jane (1999) ‘More Sugar? Teenage Magazines, Gender Displays and Sexual Learning’ , European Journal of Cultural Studies 2(1): 6589 . Google Scholar, SAGE Journals
KiliÁbay, Baris and Mutlu Binark (2002) ‘Consumer Culture, Islam and the Politics of Lifestyle’ , European Journal of Communication 17(4): 495511 . Google Scholar, SAGE Journals, ISI
Kuhn, Annette (1985) The Power of the Image: Essays on Representation and Sexuality. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul . Google Scholar
Lederer, Laura , ed. (1980) Take Back the Night: Women on Pornography. New York: William Morrow . Google Scholar
McNair, Brian (2002) Striptease Culture: Sex, Media and the Democratization of Desire. London: Routledge . Google Scholar, Crossref
McRobbie, Angela (2004) ‘Post-Feminism and Popular Culture’ , Feminist Media Studies 4(3): 255265 . Google Scholar, Crossref
McRobbie, Angela and Trisha McCabe (1981) Feminism for Girls: An Adventure Story. London: Routledge . Google Scholar
Naber, Pauline (1985) Vriendinnen: een explorerend onderzoek naar de betekenis van vriendinnen voor meisjes van veertien tot achttien jaar. Amsterdam: VU Uitgeverij. Google Scholar
Olson, Emelie A. (1985) ‘Muslim Identity and Secularism in Contemporary Turkey: “The Headscarf Dispute”’ , Anthropological Quarterly 58(4): 161171 . Google Scholar, Crossref, ISI
Prins, Baukje (2000) Voorbij de onschuld. Het debat over de multiculturele samenleving. Amsterdam: Van Gennep. Google Scholar
Said, Edward W. (1979) Orientalism. New York: Pantheon . Google Scholar
Sandikci, Ozlem and Güliz Ger (2001) ‘Fundamental Fashions: The Cultural Politics of the Turban and the Levi's’ , Advances in Consumer Research 28: 146150 . Google Scholar
Van Beemen, Olivier (2003) ‘Moralisme in de klas’, Elsevier 59(45): 55–6. Google Scholar
Vance, Carole S. , ed. (1984) Pleasure and Danger: Exploring Female Sexuality. Boston, MA: Routledge . Google Scholar
Van der Hoeven, Marie (2003) Leidraad kleding op scholen. The Hague: Ministerie van OCW. Google Scholar
Van Kuijeren, Mira (2000) ‘Hoofddoekjesaffaires. Over de Franse en Nederlandse worstelingen met gesluierde leerlingen’, Groniek: Historisch Tijdschrift 3(149): 455–71. Google Scholar
Van Zeijl, Femke (2003) ‘De kracht van de blote buik’, Opzij May. Google Scholar